November 18, 2024
Day 12: Atapuerca to Burgos -20.2 km (12.5 miles) 38,087 steps
Today we left the mountains and descended into the city Burgos. From here we will meet the Meseta, which is a long and flat section. While the walking is easier with no elevation, wind will be our biggest challenge.
We also said goodbye to two Camino friends who have been walking with us since day one. Ida from Norway was the very first pilgrim we met. She said she will try to come back and finish next year. Tamara from Slovenia was with us on the difficult climb through the Pyrenees. She has to work on Thursday. My brain cannot even fathom that right now. It is still embroiled here in Northern Spain on the Camino.
Burgos is a lively town of 155,000 citizens. It feels strange to be here after all the rural villages. Suddenly we are surrounded by people and amenities. We took a variant into the city, known as the river route, and it was quite pleasant. Tree-lined paths through parks full of folks out enjoying the sunshine. Our hotel is right near the Cathedral, which truly is a gem with magnificent gothic towers, and a plethora of religious art and artifacts within.
We have been opting for inexpensive hotels within the cities as kind of a break from the albergues where we are almost always sharing a room. The privacy feels luxurious.
We met up again with Tatiana and Felipe, and also Joaquin for dinner. Tatiana is still nursing blisters but is going to attempt the 20k tomorrow to Hornillos del Camino. We have really connected with this couple. They are such kind and thoughtful people, and I have a feeling we are going to arriving in Santiago at the same time to celebrate our accomplishment!!!
November 19, 2024
Day 13: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino – 20.6 km (12.8 miles) 39,380 steps
We took advantage of our hotel stay in Burgos and slept in a little. We got up around 7:30am and walked up to the mirador above the city. It was lovely. From there we had breakfast at a chocolate shop, yum! Aron told the lady we had heard she had pretty good chocolate. She looked insulted and said “It’s the best!”
The walk out of the city was confusing. The main route went through a park that apparently was closed but there was no signage at the beginning, and by the time we got 3/4 of the way through we noticed another pilgrim climbing over the wall. Then a man in a big construction truck told us we had to walk all the way back and around. We wasted nearly an hour of extra walking, and pretty much everyone else we talked to had the same problem. Get a sign y’all!
Once out of the city though, we entered the Meseta. The landscape is so different here than what we have seen so far. Aron says it reminds him of New Mexico; from the photos I sent my mom, she said Walla Walla. Lots of wheat fields, open and dry, few trees, and mostly flat land broken up by mesas. They say this is the section that most challenges the mind (the last section was the body), but I actually found my thoughts to be extremely prolific as we walked. Even though I miss the forest, I think this landscape agrees with me.
We are staying at the municipal albergue in Hornillos del Camino (the only one open). Tatiana, Felipe, and Joaquin are also here. The albergue had terrible ratings and now we know why. Aron says the host is worse than the nuns at Catholic school. She is very controlling and has notes posted everywhere about what not to do. She yelled at Aron for putting his blanket under his sleeping bag instead of on top. She locked the fridge at night without telling everyone and now our meat and cheese for sandwiches are being held hostage. Someone else said she lives in Burgos and won’t be back in the morning. The wine at dinner was the worst I have ever had (even worse than Sutter Home). Aron says it’s been watered down. We giggled as each pilgrim sat down and took their first sip. The look on their faces was priceless. Tatiana said the host was treating us like children. It’s funny how being treated like children actually makes you want to act like children! (giggle, giggle)
My advice: if you ever find yourself in Hornillos, keep walking to the next town!
November 20, 2024
Day 14: Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz – 19.5 km (12.2 miles)
They have a saying on the Camino. “The Camino always provides.” This morning we were still grumpy from our uncomfortable stay at the municipal albergue in Hornillos. Especially since we could not access our food (locked in the fridge!) for breakfast. We had two pieces of fruit and a few muesli bars. The next town was over 10km away. We could only hope something would be open for breakfast in the next town (nothing in Hornillos). Meanwhile we felt like we were having the starving pilgrim experience… okay not quite, but we definitely did not have enough sustenance to walk the Meseta this morning. It was a cold, and windy climb (but beautiful).
We reached the next town in record time. Six miles in 2 hours. We were hungry. As we made our way through the village of Hontanas, we began to despair because absolutely nothing was open. We finally reached the municipal albergue, which was our last hope. A sign out front said closed until 1:30. It was 10am. We cried out in desperation at a sole man walking down the street “no hay comida!”
The man just happened to be the hospitalero of the albergue. He waved us in with a sigh, brought us two cups of hot Nescafe, then proceeded to make us a couple of huge stuffed sandwiches. I must tell you they were some of the best sandwiches I have ever had. Aron was surprised when I finished my entire sandwich. Once again, “The Camino always provides.” And what a gem that hospitalero was.
We continued to walk, in better spirits, another 10km to Castrojeriz. Again, only one albergue was open, but it was 1000 times better than Hornillos. Castrojeriz also has a grocery store, a few good restaurants, and the Camino Interpretation Center. The Center featured a light show on the ceiling of the Cathedral, and compared the pilgrim experience of the past (the middle ages) to the pilgrim experience of today.
We watched an amazing sunset, had a delicious dinner at one of the restaurants (with friends and real wine!), and now we are nestled in our bunk beds dreaming of another day of walking. Tomorrow is supposed to be even more windy! But at least we are stocked up with food, and we already checked: no lock on the fridge!
Buen Camino!
November 21, 2024
Day 15: Castrojeriz to Fromista – 25.2 km (15.6 miles) 40,429 steps
We had sustained 30mph winds today, but we walked on. Was it the most challenging day? No. The very first day was the most challenging. But the wind is tough. By the time we got to Frómista, we were pretty much done with it.
The landscape is amazing but it doesn’t offer much of a wind break. It’s interesting to wander through these small towns because everything is built up for the Camino and since this is the off-season everything is closed. We took our breaks wherever we could out of the wind. Behind a cathedral, in a small park, on the backside of a wall. We saw very few people. I keep thinking how peaceful it is. We only have to interact with people if we want to. A group of guys from Leon, France were celebrating Beaujolais Nuevo, or wine harvest. We offered to share some of our inferior Spanish wine with them, lol.
Fromista is a cute town. The municipal albergue was the only one open, but it’s nice enough and the sitting room has a fireplace. A perfect cozy spot to warm up. There was a Spanish tabloid magazine on the table and I impressed myself by reading most of it.
Dinner was salmon, flan, and vino tinto. We are going to bed early, so we can get up and do our longest day yet: 35km. Forecast is sunny, not windy and 50F. We got this.
Buen camino!
November 22, 2024
Day 16: Fromista to Calzadilla de la Cueza – 35.8 km (22.31 miles) 57,945 steps
I set an all-time record today for the most steps I have ever walked in one day. And I don’t think I ever want to break it. My feet are swollen and in pain! Aron too. Luckily, neither of us have had a single blister, even after 2-1/2 weeks of walking.
The walk from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes was easy and pleasant. We squeezed out 18km in just 4 hours. We took a variant along the river, enjoying the birds and fall leaves. When we got to Carrion, we were ready to eat a good meal so we could continue the 17.2 km to Calzadilla de la Cueva.
However, at 11:30am, this town of 2200 people had plenty of restaurants open, but none of them were serving food. Only beverages. The cafés were packed with people drinking coffee, but no one was eating anything other than the occasional tapas. We became frustrated as we went through the town, stopping at every bar and café only to be told that no one was serving food until 1:30pm. Just when we think we have figured out the rules for eating here in Spain, we realize we know nothing. So many times we are starving and we can’t find anywhere to eat, but then long after we go to bed they are all eating dinner.
As we neared the edge of town, we decided to try one last bar, Taberna el Peregrino. The sign outside said no hot food until 1:30 but we decided to ask just in case. The host welcomed us in and made suggestions on what we should order. Once again, I felt gratitude for this man who decided to help us when we needed it the most. The arepa he made me was delicious. Aron had a burger. He even brought us candy. It was perfect.
The 17.2 miles ended up being torture by the end, but we probably wouldn’t have made it even halfway without the generosity of the man in Carrion de los Condes. I limped the last 3km to the albergue, but it was a welcome sight. Hot shower, pilgrim dinner, and a bottom bunk. I couldn’t be more content.
November 23, 3034
Day 17: Calzadilla de la Cueza to Calzada del Coto – 27 km (17 miles) 47,372 steps
Today was soooo much easier than yesterday. What a difference 7 less miles makes! Weather was gray today but warmish, so good walking weather. The path was still mostly flat and straight but there were lots of village breaks along the way. Our favorite was Moratinos which had what looked like little hobbit houses built into the hillside.
Our goal was Sahagun by 2pm so we could get our half-way certificate. GPS kept saying we would be there by 2:02 no matter how fast we walked, so at one point we were practically running and managed to arrive by 1:45pm. Just in time! Otherwise, we would have to wait until after siesta which went on until 4:30pm.
Afterwards we celebrated with a delicious seafood lunch in the Plaza Mayor (only €27 for pasta with clams & shrimp, squid rice pilaf, bread, dessert and all beverages for 2 people). We wandered the streets of Sahagun admiring the old churches and the colorful street art. At last we decided it was time to walk our final 5km of the day to the next town, Calzada del Coto. There was a very highly rated donativo albergue there (by donation). We ran into Tatiana and Felipe on our way out of town, who were climbing the hill to get their own halfway certificates.
That night it was just the 4 of us and we had the entire albergue all to ourselves (36 beds I think it said). We all slept really well, and are finally feeling the most refreshed after the last week or so. It’s already 8am (normal checkout time) so it’s time to head out!
November 24, 2024
Day 18: Calzada del Coto to Reliegos – 25.6 km (15.9 miles) 41,777 steps
I feel like this should have been an easy day. Flat, straight, a reasonable distance, but instead I struggled and hurt in all kinds of places. We had planned to travel to Mancilla de las Mulas, just another 6km down the road. But, when we arrived in Reliegos it was trying to rain, we were hungry and tired, our phones were nearly dead, and once again nothing was open. When we walked by the albergue, however, the hospitalero was standing there and unlocking the door. It felt like kismet, so we stayed.
Just an hour and a half later, our friends arrived, and then it was a celebration. There was just one tiny grocery store around the corner. The proprietor would open it if you rang the bell. We bought pasta, microwave dinners, chocolate, bananas, and €3.25 bottles of wine. The albergue had the perfect kitchen space. We hung out from 4:30 to 8:30. By 9pm everyone was sound asleep. This is life on the Camino.
Because our phones seemed to be draining their batteries so quickly today, I had plenty of time to just walk and think. I tried to practice mindfullness as I walked, and think about positive ways of being. I also spent time remembering the people I have lost, which seems to be a big focus here on the Camino. There are many memorials along the way, typically big piles of rocks accompanied by photos, names, and stories.
Meanwhile, Aron plodded on ahead blasting Dope Lemon, Pink Floyd, Led Zeppelin, etc., and utilizing every last ounce of battery. I hung out behind, away from the sound, just walking and thinking. And appreciating this time that I have to be here, present in the moment, walking the Camino.
November 25, 2024
Day 19: Reliegos to Leon – 24.6km (15.29 miles) 44,581 steps
It was supposed to rain all morning, so we were prepping for that, but by the time we were up and moving the rain had finished. So the worst thing we had to deal with were a couple of mud puddles. By 10am we were enjoying a brilliant blue sky and sunshine. Only the wind was cold, but it encouraged us to pick up our pace into the city of Leon.
We like to reward ourselves when we reach a bigger city and stay in a hotel, which is usually about once a week. I have been looking forward to this since Burgos. Privacy and sleeping in until 8am feels so luxurious (most albergues require you to be out by 8am). The hotels are still cheap compared to US prices ($50 for a decent room with a view of the cathedral!), and so worth it.
I had hoped to have a little more time to explore the city, but I think all of us are exhausted at this point and we spent most of our time sleeping. I did get a little sneak peak at the inside of Casa Botines, one of Gaudi’s architectural creations, and we plan to go to mass in the morning so we can see the inside of the Leon Cathedral. But otherwise, rest, rest and more rest.
We did manage to reconnect with Katharina, a German primary school teacher, whom we haven’t seen since Logroño. Unfortunately, we ended up at the worst tapas place because the one we wanted was closed. But at least we had good company!
November 26, 2024
Day 20: Leon to San Martin del Camino – 25km (15 miles) 40,427 steps
Today was the first day we thought about taking the bus. Not only were we still exhausted, but this was the least pleasant part of the walk. The Camino goes right along the busy highway as it leaves the city. There was so much exhaust, too much traffic, and nothing enjoyable to look at. We contemplated if it would be cheating if we just took a bus through the industrial parts of Leon. Many people do this, we reasoned. But in the end, we just kept walking. It has now been 3 weeks since we have been inside a motor vehicle. Three weeks since we have traveled by something other than our feet.
There is a more scenic variant once you’re out of Leon, but it doesn’t go through San Martin, where we planned to stop. Tomorrow, however there is a more feasible scenic variant into Astorga, and after that we start to climb into the mountains again and will officially be out of the Meseta.
Our albergue in San Martin is perfect. Family run with homemade meals, and our room was nice and warm when we arrived. Our hospitalera has already put up Christmas decorations. Sitting down to a good meal with our Camino friends almost felt like a mini Thanksgiving. Board games afterwards, and our host even had a massage chair, which was heavenly!
November 27, 2024
Day 21: San Martin del Camino to Astorga – 24.8km (15.41 miles) 40,932 steps
Today renewed my faith in the Camino. The path finally left the highway and we climbed back up into the countryside. We saw picturesque ancient bridges, rolling hills of harvested farmland, and quaint little towns. I no longer thought about the bus.
Our best stop of the day was about halfway to Astorga. Just as we crested our first big hill we saw a little stand that said “wine tasting, by donation”. It was only 11:30am but I knew Aron was going to stop. Two hours later we were still there, drinking wine, chatting with Josss the proprietor, adoring his dog Goodji, and welcoming any pilgrim that happened by to join us. At one point Josss brought out his harmonica and the dog sang along. Later he brought out a stereo speaker, and Aron introduced everyone to Dope Lemon. Among the pilgrims who joined us: Alvin from India, a man from Hungary, and Pablo from Madrid who had walked the entire Camino and was now walking back the other way all the way home!
At one point I did need the restroom, and Josss happily offered his garden. “Go anywhere”, he said. I guess no indoor plumbing at this establishment!
Finally, we realized it was getting late and we needed to continue on if we wanted to reach Astorga. While we had been chatting, the sun came out and it was a fantastically beautiful afternoon walk. My only complaint: by the time we reached Astorga it was too late to visit any of the museums (including the Gaudi palace). But I guess that isn’t the purpose of this trip. I feel this trip is more about connecting with people, and also letting go. Simplifying and accepting the things we have no control over. Today was a good day.
November 28, 2024
Day 22: Astorga to Foncebadon – 25.4km (15.8 miles) 43,037 steps
Another miraculously beautiful day in November. Today we climbed. Climbed past village churches, stone houses, wayside chapels, cats sitting in the sun meowing, an old pilgrim, a cluster of teepees, and a shuttered “cowboy bar.”
The region here is called Maragateria. The people are known as Maragatos. Their origins are largely unknown, but they are a unique cultural group living in the “montes” of Leon. They have their own customs, clothing, and architecture. Their villages consist of stone houses with large doors.
I took few pictures today. Everywhere I looked was charming and quaint, but somehow it was difficult to capture. Maybe the sun was just a little too bright, or the November shadows just a little too low, but nothing came out the way I was seeing it. Best just to walk and enjoy.
Today is Thanksgiving back at home. Families are gathering and starting to cook, looking forward to this special time together. In my opinion, everyday should be a day of gratitude. We are so fortunate to be here in this place at this time, healthy and strong, climbing a mountain in the north of Spain. I miss my kids today but luckily they are spending the day with their dad. He will make sure they get all the best parts of Thanksgiving: turkey, green bean casserole, stuffing, and pie. And family. 
To be continued on the next page…
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