“But I would walk 500 miles…. And I would walk 500 more!” ~The Proclaimers
Walking the Comino Frances in 32 Days: A Travel Journal
November 5, 2024
Day 0: Travel Day to Saint Jean Pied de Port
We made our way from Madrid today to Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPDP), our starting point for the Camino Frances. It was not straightforward or easy, but somehow we made it. First we took a 3-hour train ride to Pamplona (from Madrid). Then we walked from the train to the bus station (2-miles). From there we caught a 1-hour bus ride to Roncevalles. At this point we were just 15 miles from SJPDP, but there was no bus available in the off season, so we had to hire a taxi. I actually had scheduled the taxi last week but when we got to Roncevalles there was a message from the taxi company asking me to confirm 24 hours prior, or they wouldn’t come. Of course we had been traveling for longer than that, so I missed it.
I sent off a couple of very panicky WhatsApp messages, because other than walking or hitchhiking there really wasn’t another way to get there. And we really wanted to start from SJPDP. Luckily, the taxi driver messaged and agreed to still pick us up. We had an hour to wait and the temperature was about 65°F, so we sat out in the sun and drank the inexpensive, local red wine. It was so relaxing.
Finally in SJPDP, we received our first pilgrim stamps. There are a few pilgrims here, but the town seems quiet. We wandered, exploring the old city wall and cobblestone streets. We discovered one lonely little pizza place that was actually open, and loaded up on carbs for our first big day of walking tomorrow!
November 6, 2024
Day 1: Camino Frances. Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles, posted 23.6km but it was longer!
My heart hurts today as we walked our first day of the Camino. People ask why we are here. To escape the election we say. But you can’t escape it. It’s everywhere. But we walk, and we walk and walk, always thinking. We walked 27 km today with a 1200 meter elevation climb. It was challenging. It was grueling. Everything aches. The last 8 km was basically straight up through the Pyrenees. It was not easy. This is where Charlamagne battled the Saracens and lost Roland. This is where Napoleon’s armies crossed into the Basque country and were repelled.
On the positive side, we met so many wonderful people today: from France, Italy, Malaysia, Korea, Germany, Norway, etc. The Camino is so great for community. I am glad we are here for the next 42 days. To process, and to brainstorm how we can do our part to counteract hatred and make the world a better place. Because there are good things about humanity: hope, inclusiveness, and understanding. And most of all faith. This is what I still have.
Buen Camino.
November 7, 2024
Day 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri. 21.9km (13.7mi). 38,797 steps
Today was a bit easier. Not a lot, but a little, which made a huge difference. The hills weren’t as steep and there were more charming little towns to stop in and explore; some places were so small they were labeled “human settlement” on the map. How quaint!
We passed through this beautiful, dense woodland, known as Zorginaritzaga, an area known historically for its “covens of witches”. The nearby town of Burguete was unsurprisingly known for the earliest persecutions of witches by none other than the Spanish Inquisition. Many years later, Ernest Hemingway hung out here. That guy sure got around!
The route took us next through lush green rolling hills. We said hello to horses, cows and dogs. Other pilgrims would pass us and then we would pass them depending on how many breaks we all took. But today we kept our own pace, so we didnt really walk with anyone. Lots of time to think.
We continue to meet great people. This is one of the best parts of the Camino. One group from France is only walking 3 days so we will say goodbye to them tomorrow in Pamplona. We miss them already!
Staying in the medieval town of Zubiri. Population: 300.
November 8, 2024
Day 3: Zubiri to Pamplona: 20.9km or 13 miles. Plus walking around Pamplona: 43,165 Steps
Today was supposed to be a shorter day, but trying to get to the center of Pamplona was a bit hectic. This is the largest city we have been in so far on the Camino (200,000 people), so we had to walk through suburbs and industrial areas. Not the most pleasant, and we became anxious. We probably tacked on an extra hour of walking just trying to navigate the city and find our hostel.
The middle part of the walk, however, was lovely. Tiny medieval towns and churches. A leaf-strewn path along the River Arga. And even a seemingly empty village where we were suddenly surrounded by cats! We never saw a single human in that village (more like a human settlement).
When you spend so much time walking, you also have a lot of time for thinking. We have sworn to not think (or talk) about politics. So today I pondered what it must have been like to travel this route during medieval times. Pilgrims were prey to so many dangers, robbers and thieves, unlike today where it is relatively safe. We have met so many women traveling solo on the trail. I doubt this would have been safe 1000 years ago. Walking through the forest, I listen for the voices of past pilgrims. I hear them in the wind, the rush of the river, and the chirps of the songbirds. Ancient sounds. Meanwhile, I felt increased energy as I walk in the footsteps of people who passed this way centuries ago.
We have been on the Camino just 3 days, but already we have forged so many friendships. Katerina from Germany. Ida from Norway. Antonio and Sara from Italy (Antonio has sworn friendship forever to Aron because he gave him water when he most needed it). CJ and Yen from Malaysia (CJ read about the Camino in a magazine several years ago and swore he would one day take the woman he loved on the walk, and this is Yen!). Tamara from Slovenia. Guiseppe also from Italy (he’s here to party, lol, but he’s young). So many others. We appear to be the only Americans so far.
The old part of Pamplona has been a lovely area to walk and explore. We had to try the pinchos or tapas. They are so cheap compared to the US (average $3-4). And so many interesting types. We walked the street where they have the Running of the Bulls, and poked into some of the souvenir shops. Funnily enough, walking without packs was so much easier, we put in another 3 miles just walking around old town Pamplona.
Buen Camino!
November 9, 2024
Day 4: Pamplona to Puente La Reina – 23.8k (14.8m) 42,257 steps
Today we had rain. But it was a lot like Oregon rain, so tolerable. Time to test out the ponchos! We wandered from the center of Pamplona to the outskirts, then wove our way through huge expanses of farmland, all the while dodging endless puddles and sticky mud. Behind us we could hear our Italian friends chatting up a storm. All of them traveled here individually and have now formed a group of 5. Then they picked up another solo Italian traveler along the way: Julia from Rome.
We stopped in the town of Zariquiegui to decompress. Several fellow pilgrims bought espressos. I have been avoiding coffee on this trip because sometimes it upsets my stomach. Strictly tea. The cafe owner had a cute little dog who didn’t like anyone, but especially not Aron!
Just past Zarquiegui we reached the halfway point and started a difficult climb to the top of the mountain. (Although it was nothing like the first day in the Pyrenees). Suddenly we came across a huge deep puddle that looked impossible to traverse. A few tried it and ended up with wet feet. Aron led us around into the muddy field below. Our shoes were completely covered with sticky mud, but better than wet feet I guess!
Finally we made it to the top. Here was the famous pilgrim silhouette sculpture with a stunning backdrop, an aerial view of the farmland and the mountain we just climbed with the city of Pamplona in the distance. As we started to gather the crew together for a group photo, pilgrim after pilgrim started arriving up the hill. We cheered each one as they reached the top. Many of them were people we’ve been walking with since the start. It was an amazing moment of community celebration and camaraderie.
Today I’ve been thinking about what I am most grateful for, and community and friendship is at the top of my list. Maybe that is what makes the Camino so special. We are all out here doing a really difficult thing, and the community as a whole is super supportive; all about sharing and cheering each other on the entire way. No matter who you are. They are so inclusive. It’s fantastic.
From the pilgrim sculpture, the trail descended down the other side of the mountain. The path was extremely steep and rocky. My feet still hurt from walking over all those rocks, and I even got my first blister today (although not painful!)
We are now in Puente La Reina, a cute medieval town with a population of 20,000. We are staying in a hippie albergue complete with incense burning, a massage room, and chemical free everything. Tomorrow our host is making us a lovely breakfast with local products. This space is very relaxing and just what we needed.
Buen Camino!
November 10, 2024
Day 5: Puente de la Reina to Estella – 21.9k (13.6m) 40,814 steps
Feeling much better today. Yesterday was really hard on the feet so we took today slow, and I have no complaints about the walk itself. However, once we reached Estella everything was chaotic. The albergue we planned to stay in was closed, and nearly out of town. So we found another one on the other end, and I booked it, but accidentally for the wrong date. Non-refundable. Ugh! We arrived to request the correct date but they only had a remote receptionist. It was weird and nothing would process, but in the end everything worked out (still it was rough and we were exhausted at this point).
We ended up with a deluxe room with a discount and a refund (and a view overlooking the plaza). Later we had paella and met up with Camino friends. It was overall a good day.
Aron said today this was one of the hardest things he has ever done. I have to agree!
Buen camino!
November 11, 2024
Day 6: Estella to Sansol – 28.3 km (17.8 miles) 45,228 steps
Wow, what a day! Longest day yet. We decided to join our Camino friends in a cute little hostel called Albergue Karma in the town of Sansol. It’s a 200-year old house run by a man who walked the Camino himself and then decided to open an albergue and is a dedicated healer. People stay here who are suffering from ailments on the Camino.
The owner is very kind and he also provided us dinner for 11 people. The cost was just €20 per person for a bed and dinner ($21.31). What a bargain! In addition he did our laundry. Amazing.
Today we took our first variant. The Camino Frances is made up of the main route, and occasionally, variants. Variants are usually more scenic and away from the main highway, but usually longer. This one was a kilometer shorter, so we took it!
The first section was forest with all kinds of mushrooms. Aron was ecstatic We eventually reached the village of Liquin, but now we were walking through treeless farmland. It was a bit monotonous and we could see for miles and miles in the distance. But eventually we reached Los Arcos where we reunited with several of our crew. After coffees and snacks, we started the final stretch to Sansol. Just 7 km away; we could see it perched on the hillside. But it never felt like it was getting any closer. We kept going and going and finally, at last, we were there…..
Buen Camino!
November 12, 2024
Day 7: Sansol to Logroño – 21km (13 miles) 43,361 steps.
Today was an average day in terms of distance. We started from Sansol about 7:30am and made it to Logroño just before 3. The last bit heading into Logroño was straight and flat so we were able to make good time.
I can feel us getting stronger. Hills don’t feel as daunting anymore. But my shoulders ache, I feel pain in my right hip, and Aron feels it in his heel. Not debilitating but we thought a rest day could be useful, so tomorrow we are spending an extra day in Logroño, which is also known for wine! It will be nice to sleep in a little, do the laundry, and have a reset for the next stage, which is supposed to be a long one. Still, it feels strange to think we won’t be walking tomorrow, which has become habit. Plus, some of our new friends will be moving on ahead of us. It was inevitable, but hopefully when we reach Santiago it will be with at least a few familiar faces.
Spent the evening on the famous Calle Laurel eating tapas, drinking wine, and celebrating Katerina’s 27th birthday. She is a primary school teacher and newlywed from Germany. She is walking the Camino to learn to be independent, and is just the sweetest soul. I will say it again (and again!), the best thing about walking the Camino is the people you meet.
November 13, 2024 (Happy birthday Dad!)
Rest day: Logroño. 11,679 steps (ha!)
Logroño is a lovely little city. We slept in, had the breakfast buffet at the hotel, and did our laundry. Later, we checked out the Museo de Rioja and went wine tasting at Arizcuren Bodega with Tatiana and Felipe (Portuguese couple living in England). We got even more rest and then we went searching for artisanal ice cream, which Logroño is known for. Yet, every ice cream shop was closed. We happened to run into Carlos and Tamara, locals who walked with us from Roncesvalles, but they told us the ice cream places all close as soon as it gets cold. Tamara recommended one last possibility, and fortunately it was open. I tried Leche merengada (whipped cinnamon milk), a local specialty. Fue deliciosa!!!
November 14, 2024
Day 8: Logroño to Najera – 28.9 km (18miles) 46,205 steps
Our rest day was so worth it. Today we felt fresh. Almost like the first day but stronger. We knocked out 18 miles like it was nothing. Well, not quite, but we did good. 8 hours of walking with a few breaks in the middle. We even took a short detour to Ventosa to see what they called “1km of art in nature”.
Today was really good weather again, which made it easy. The sun was shining as we walked through wine country surrounded by vineyards. I put on a good 80’s mix and just walked. Even the hills have lost their intimidation factor. We are about a quarter of the way now. I finally feel like we actually got this. 
November 15, 2024
Day 9: Najera to Grañoñ – 29km (18 miles) approximate (too tired to do the math.) 47,781 steps
Since yesterday’s 18 miles seemed almost easy, we decided to go for it again, but with different results. Today was much more difficult.
The weather was foggy and misty. For most of the day we couldn’t see more than a 1/4 mile down the road. While it was definitely atmospheric, it started to weigh on me after awhile. Everything felt heavier. My bag, my feet, my shoulders. Everything started to ache with weariness. I kept telling myself, at least it isn’t raining.
The country road went on and on and on through the fog. Few pilgrims could be seen, and when we did see one, they quickly disappeared into the grayness.
We did meet a Brit named Brett at a cafe in Azorfa, (one of the few snippets of civilization on this very long day of walking), and when we told him we were planning to walk all the way to Grañoñ he told us of an American he met who was planning on the same albergue that night. We were excited to meet another American, because this would be the first one in 9 days. Although Brett warned us the American was quirky (aren’t we all?) lol.
We kept walking until we reached Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Most of our Camino friends planned to stay here this night, but we were going 7km farther. It was a lovely little town with lots of restaurants. Santo Domingo (the person) helped to build the Camino and was a protector of pilgrims. In imagery, he is always carrying a sickle and often followed by two chickens. Both are based on legends of the Saint. We vsited the cathedral which actually has live chickens living inside one of the galleries.
Cold and damp (especially after being in the church), it was tough to go on, but I was determined to stay in Grañon. There is a special albergue there attached to the church. They provide a community dinner and spiritual opportunities. I wanted this very pilgrim experience, so I bit my tongue and kept going.
After 7 grueling kilometers, we reached Grañon. The first person we saw was Terri, a volunteer from Vancouver Island who greeted us and gave us instructions on how to find the albergue. We made our way up dark spiraling steps to the back part of the church. We were pleasantly surprised to find a warm and inviting place, with super friendly volunteers and hot tea. Our bed is just a mat on the floor but it’s comfortable.
And at last we met the American, who turned out to be from Moab. What a small world! And Moab is quirky at its best.
The community dinner was fantastic. I can’t wait for breakfast! It was a tough day, but as they say, the Camino provides!
November 16, 2024
Day 10: Grañon to Espinosa del Camino – km (too many, ha!) 25.6 km or 16 miles, 40,682 steps
Today was better than yesterday but still tough. At least we could see off into the distance. Still the sun never came out. One positive thing was there were more villages. I like villages because they break up the walk and sometimes there might even be a bar or cafe open. We like these because we can stop, get a snack, and use the toilet. Very important! Luckily, I have only had to go outdoors once. There are many stretches without even a single tree, so absolutely no privacy.
We made it to Belorado by noon. This area is where much of the movie “The Way” was filmed. Belorado also has a path called the Paseo del Amino where famous Camino walkers have cast their hand and footprint in bronze. I walked until I found Martin Sheen’s cast. Someone said they are filming a second movie to be set on El Norte, another Camino to the north.
We also passed through Villoria de la Rioja, birthplace of Santo Domingo (who helped develop the Camino, see yesterday). Banners announced Santo Domingo was born 1000 years ago from 2019.
This time of year is so quiet. We are seeing maybe 10-15 other pilgrims per day, and the villages feel like ghost towns, although I’ve been told that’s not so. Still you can see the infrastructure for when the Camino is busy. Sometimes I imagine, as we are walking, what it must be like during the busy time. Large groups of pilgrims walking together and chatting away. Their hiking poles (or sticks) going tap, tap, tap as they walk through the villages. Young people up late at night drinking and partying, then dragging themselves out early the next morning to walk. So much noise and activity. Nothing like now.
I really appreciate doing the walk this time of year. There are just enough people to form a Camino family, but not so many that we can’t walk and contemplate in peace. One or two days we have not seen another pilgrim for hours. Yes, many of the shops and albergues are closed, but we have not had trouble finding a bed. It just takes a little pre-planning the day before, and there are apps saying which places are open. We also always stock up on food in our backpacks: a baguette, cheese, and some chorizo (for Aron), fruit and snacks. We have been fine.
This night we stayed in a 4-bed Casa (smaller than an albergue) run by an older German couple. It was so cozy and comfy. The husband, Uli, prepared us dinner: the best tomato soup I have ever had, mushroom pasta for me, meatloaf pasta for Aron and our roommate Carlos (from Burgos, Spain). Uli also shared with us a delicious light banana cream dessert, and local wine. I wish I had pictures but it was also about sitting at the table and engaging with the company.
I just slept 9 hours straight. It was much needed. Today we head to Atapuerca, site of the oldest human remains in Europe, and the sun is supposed to shine all day. Hooray!
November 17, 2024
Day 11: Espinosa del Camino to Atapuerca – 21.8 km (13.5 miles) 35,971 steps
Everything about today was better. The sun was out, we climbed a “monte” through the forest (not a mountain because it was only 200m), and we arrived by 3pm with plenty of time to rest. And I barely felt any aches and pains. It was glorious.
I find that arriving by 5pm at the albergue is too late. It’s not enough time to shower and relax before dinner. 3pm or before is much better. You can hang out a bit, relax, shower, hand wash your clothes, drink tea, etc. We seem to have our sweet spot at about 13-14 miles. Anything longer than that and we struggle.
We are staying in a lovely little albergue in Atapuerca. Two brothers run it who are also carpenters, and they have done a beautiful job building all the furniture by hand. The bunkbeds, the kitchen, the bathrooms, everything is well done. Unfortunately though there is no community dinner, so we went to the cantina down the street and had the worst pizza ever. I think it was frozen. Never again.
Tomorrow we plan to head out early so we can reach Burgos with time to explore. We have a hotel reserved there near the cathedral so we can enjoy some private space. The albergues are a part of the Camino experience, and I enjoy them, but it will be nice not to have to share a bathroom with 12 other people.
To be continued on the next page….
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