For one of the best hikes in Mexico, the Pueblos Mancomunados in the Sierra Norte mountains of Oaxaca should be at the top of your list. Just a 2-hour drive north of Oaxaca City, this customizable 1 to 7 day outdoor adventure will enable you to learn about the unique biodiversity of the Sierra Norte and immerse yourself in the local indigenous culture.
The Pueblos Mancomunados (Common Villages) is an ecotourism project initially created in 1993 by a group of elders from the village of Benito Juarez to help financially support their struggling indigenous community while also preserving the natural environment and cultural traditions. Eventually this initiative expanded to comprise eight Zapotec villages who all work together to support their larger community.
Each participating pueblo has a local office, cabins built for tourists to stay in, local guides, workshops, and farm to table restaurants. All of the money earned helps fund forest management, community conservation initiatives, and community well-being. The Pueblos Mancomunados is considered a pioneering model of community-based ecotourism in Mexico..1
We recommend booking your hiking experience with the community-run company, Expediciones Sierra Norte. They offer multiple packages, including hiking, biking, horse back riding, traditional medicine, bird watching, and cultural tourism. They are also willing to modify the experience based on your travel needs and interests. The company is owned and operated by the Pueblos Mancomunados.
While it is possible to travel more independently, the savings cost is minimal, especially if you opt out of an English speaking guide ($38/day per person in 2025). Also, while some sources online say it is possible to hike between villages on your own, the community discourages it. The point is, after all, to support the indigenous people and their goal of sustainability.
We chose the 5-day hiking package that focused on the natural environment and the rich biodiversity of the region. The cost of the experience (approximately $243 per day in 2025 for 2 people) included 3-meals per day, lodging in the cabins, a local guide, an English interpreter, and a temazcal experience (a traditional Mesoamerican sweat lodge and spiritual cleansing). In addition, the fees covered transportation between Oaxaca City and the Pueblos, which takes about 2 hours by car.
We met a couple from Montana who decided to take the bus, but they said it took them the entire day to arrive at their destination. As huge advocates of public transportation, we considered traveling by bus but the route was complicated. So for this trip we decided to go with the much more convenient option by car.
Rutas de la Nauraleza: 5-day Hiking Tour
Day 1: 8 km (5 miles), San Antonio Cuajimoloyas (Yaa Cuetzi in Zapotec)
We woke up early, packed, and waited for our driver Carlos to pick us up from our Oaxaca City hotel. He was late but we attributed it to Mexican time. He drove us to the Expediciones Sierra Norte office where we paid the balance of our trip before continuing out of the city and high up into the mountains to the north. The road was steep, mostly unpaved with sharp curves, but after 2 hours we made it to the village of Cuajimoloyas.
Cuajimoloyas (Cuaji for short) has a population of 554 and sits about 3,197 meters (10,490 feet) in elevation. For us Oregonians, this is almost to the top of Mount Hood, which is the highest point in our state. Cuaji is the highest settlement in the state of Oaxaca. Luckily we had been in Mexico for a couple of weeks so we had an easier time acclimating to the elevation. The morning was quiet with a nice cool breeze and we felt energetic and ready for our first day of hiking.
Soon we met our guides, sisters Ester and Zoila. Ester is a local curandera, or healer, and was ready to teach us everything she knows about the local plants and their medicinal uses. She has been learning from her mother since the age of 7, and her mother has been a community healer for more than 60 years. I was so excited to learn from a master, a direct recipient of the wisdom of her ancestors. Also, we were fortunate to have a private tour, so we could ask all the essential questions.
Zoila is Ester’s older sister. She left Oaxaca at the age of 13 to live in Mexico City. She only recently returned to her home village after living in the big city for 36 years. She only spoke a smattering of English, but her presence and insight was welcomed. I found it intriguing to spend our day with 2 sisters who had spent most of their lives apart but were now neighbors, colleagues and members of the same small community.
Our hike started out slow and easy, even at this high elevation. We followed a dirt road lined with Century Agave plant, which Ester referred to as the “Centenario”. These agaves are not used for mezcal production, but they are important for landscaping, fiber production and traditional medicine. In fact, nearly every plant we passed was important and useful to the community healer.
Many plants were similar to those we have at home: lupine, dandelions, chamise, Indian paintbrush, wild mint, chamomile, sage, lavender, wild geraniums, stinging nettle, dock leaf, etc. I was excited to recognize these and to confirm my own knowledge about typical uses. There were also many plants that Ester said were good for similar ailments, so I had to ask her how she actually decided which plants to use. “Whatever is closest,” she answered. Makes perfect sense.
Century Agave 
Eryngium (sea holly) 
Senecia (ragwort) 
We passed by several small farms. The farmers were out tilling the fields by hand. “Papas”, Ester indicated by gesturing toward the potato farmers. As we continued along the path, we said hello to sheep and donkeys, cats and rabbits, and plenty of dogs. Zoila kept seven sheep at home and was picking out leaves that they love to nibble on. Ester knew the personal name of every domestic animal that we passed. Fiona the cat was my favorite.
The easy part of the trail was over. We began to negotiate a steep, curving descent into the forest. Our only thoughts were “what goes down must come up again” and sure enough, just before the halfway point, we started to climb. And climb. And climb. And climb.
The climb was tough but worth it. We reached Coyote Cave, a protected area used by Zapotec women and children during the Mexican Revolution to hide from opposing forces. It’s easy to see how they might protect themselves here. The route up was super steep, and the views from above were broad. An aggressor would be seen long before they could make their way up the precipitous slope. We continued to climb up the gnarly incline to a mirador with a stunning view of the surrounding mountains.
Soon we found ourselves back at the village and ready for lunch. In fact, we were famished. We ate at a local restaurant called “Marlen” and they provided quite the spread. Soup, quesadillas (with cheese!) and hibiscus water. 2
For the main dish, I tried the chile relleno and Aron requested the barbacoa. Sides included rice, avocado, mushrooms, nopales, potatoes, queso fresco, beans, and handmade tortillas. Everything was fresh and unprocessed. This was by far the best meal we have had in Mexico.
After lunch, we joined Ester for an additional learning opportunity about the plants and herbs, especially those used in teas. Her focus now was on plants that she grew in her garden rather than the wild ones. She grows lavender, red sage, chamomile, mint, roses, rosemary, parsley, and more. We tried a couple of different teas sweetened with local honey. I am feeling inspired to start my own herb garden. Ester says you can store them dried for up to one year.
As part of the Pueblos Mancomunados experience we stayed in spacious cabins up above the town. They were much nicer than I expected. Comfy beds, luke-warm water (but never hot), electricity and a fireplace.
About 8pm, a man from the community office brought in some wood and soon we had a roaring fire to worm the cabin. At over 10,000 feet in late winter, this was a much needed amenity. Temperatures outside were getting down into the 40’s℉, but inside the cabin it was nice and cozy.
Tomorrow we will have a different guide, so at dinner we had to say goodbye to Ester. We will miss her even after just one day. We all shared a lot of personal stories and enjoyed getting to know this especially interesting member of the Cuaji community. Day 1 was fantastic and will set the bar for the days to come.
Day 2: 8 km (5 miles), Cuajimoloyas to Benito Juarez
I couldn’t sleep last night, mostly because I couldn’t breathe. It must be the elevation. I had to focus on big deep breaths to feel like I was getting enough oxygen, and that kept me awake. My mouth was extra dry so I kept drinking water, which meant I had to get up and use the toilet multiple times.
The bed was against the wall and Aron took the outside. I have learned from experience I cannot crawl over him without him complaining, so I had to scoot, scoot, scoot several times during the night. All in all, it was an awful night, and I got up early just so I didn’t have to lie there anymore gasping for air.
6am. I am up. I am done trying to sleep. The sunrise from the cabins was a refreshing sight. It was cold but peaceful, and the view was breathtaking. I actually expected to be woken up by the sounds of farm animals, which is something foreign to those of us who live in big cities. Cities are known for other sounds like traffic and trains and noisy neighbors, but animal sounds are rare.
Right now all I can hear is a donkey braying and a rooster crowing. I start preparing for the day, ready to get going on this hike so we can end up at a lower elevation. Packing is easy. We learned to pack light when we walked the Camino de Santiago. I hung my recently washed undergarments out in the sun as we made our way down to breakfast.
I am loving the meals they provide us with in the villages. Everything is so fresh. For breakfast, I had eggs and a tomato-filled tortilla. My guess is that the eggs were collected this morning, the tomatoes were fresh from a vine, and the tortillas of course were handmade. Eating here is both nourishing and heart-warming. As Aron would say, “Panza llena, corazon contento” (full belly, happy heart). Every time he repeated this phrase our hosts would smile and express their satisfaction with his gratitude.
We met our new English guide, Eli. He is a biologist from Tamaulipas who recently moved to Oaxaca. He has only been working for Expediciones Sierra Norte since December. Eli made it clear that his main role is translator., although he seems to be extremely knowledgeable about many things, including snakes, birds, the history and political environment of Mexico, and the structure of the Pueblos Mancomunados community.
Although my Spanish continues to improve and I could understand most of what the Spanish-speaking guides have been saying, we were grateful to have Eli along. It was worth the extra cost for an English-speaking interpreter.
Eli walked us down to the office to meet the local guide, Maria Luis. She has been guiding for 18 or 19 years, so I made an effort to follow right behind her and ask her questions directly, while Aron hung back with Eli and got the English version.
Maria Luis was small in stature, like me, but she was strong and she barely slowed down as she led the charge down the steep mountain trail. In fact, this hike ended up being much tougher than expected. It was only 8km but we scrambled all the way down one mountain before beginning the near vertical ascent up the next.
After what felt like hours of climbing, I asked Maria Luis if it was “un poco mas arriba” and she responded “arriba tante”, “subir entonces subir entonces subir”. I took a deep breath in and didn’t say anything to Aron who was already complaining that the hike was much more than I had said it was going to be. Oops!
The description said this was a moderate hike, but as an avid hiker I would probably place it in the difficult category. Most people would find this hike challenging, especially when you consider the elevation (10,000+ feet). We went down 1,500 feet, back up 1,000 feet, then back down 500 feet, all in less than 5 miles.
Most of the trails were steep and narrow, and went directly up or down without any switchbacks to moderate the climb. These trails were built for farmers traveling back and forth between home and their farms, not eco-tourists out for a stroll between villages.
Luckily our friend Joaquin had already trained us to be mountain goats the previous week while hiking in Desierto de los Leones National Park just outside of Mexico City. So we worked our way up the mountain with a few huffs and puffs and complaints, but not too much of a commotion. 3
Our steep path eventually started to level out and we began to get our breath back. We climbed over some large boulders only to come fact to face with the longest suspension bridge in Mexico. Maria Luis appeared ready to trudge on across the bridge, but we wanted to slow down and appreciate the magnificent views.
We discovered another great view on the other side once we crossed the bridge. A rickety old tower stood tall as if to to salute the beauty of this amazing place. I wanted to make the climb up the ladder (which was enclosed) but Aron was expressing some anxiety about the height and Maria Luis was itching to keep going, and so I skipped it. Maybe next time.
As we walked, Eli told us more about the cooperative of Pueblos Mancomunados. This indigenous community is self-governing and exists independently of the Mexican government. Eli referred to its unique community-based conservationist-minded structure as a “utopia”. In order to be considered a full-fledged voting member of the community, each individual is required to donate a full year, salary-free, to help run the cooperative. Members can be called upon by the board at any time from the ages of 16 to 60. 4
There doesn’t seem to be a limit on how many years a member can be called upon to serve. According to Eli, this required year of service can present a hardship on families who rely on farming (and hence labor) to make their living, but it is a sacrifice most of them are willing to make for the good of the community.
The benefits of living in the community are many. Because they are autonomous, the community owns the land and doles it out to their members. Nearly everyone is a farmer, so they are rich in produce, meat and dairy. The ecotourism project brings in needed extra money, which is shared amongst everyone.
Yet, as mentioned before, it is not easy to give an entire year of service without a salary. Families stockpile food and other supplies in preparation of being called to their year of service (and because of this, they were well-prepared for COVID).
Lunch was at Don Eli’s farm. The family was lovely and welcoming, and we shared stories with Don Eli and his wife Rufina, a couple who appeared to be in their 60’s. Their grandkids hung out in the kitchen peering at us curiously, including the adorable 2-1/2 year old, Panchito.
Again, all the food was fresh: salad, potato cakes, and tortillas. Aron had the chicken, which Don Eli said had been killed that morning. The men discussed how much better natural food was for our bodies, organic and hormone-free. But, they complained that even in Mexico, city folks prefer their food bigger and brighter and artificial.
Fortunately, the family offered us a ride back to the village. We were exhausted with full bellies, and the walk back up the hill sounded like torture. Most of the family piled into the back of the pickup, but they graciously offered us the bench seat up front. Back at the cabin, I took a much-needed nap. The afternoon was warm and the elevation wasn’t bothering me, so I went right to sleep.
After my nap, we explored the town of Benito Juarez, which isn’t big. The population is only 425. However, the town is full of brightly colored homes and beautiful gardens with a small central square dominated by a basketball court. Also, strangely enough, this is the first Mexican town I have been in without a visible Catholic church.
Our interpreter, Eli, had a possible explanation for that. He said most of the population of Benito Juarez are 7th Day Adventists. He also noted that you won’t find any soccer fields in the Pueblos Mancomunados. Everyone here likes to play basketball. In fact, they frequently have tournaments between the towns.
Dinner was at the community restaurant. We had fresh trout, rice and salad accompanied by a mint tea. Everything was delicious.
Day 3: 8 km (5 miles), Benito Juarez to La Neveria (Latzi Belli in Zapotec)
Marching bands, earthquakes, and fireworks. How does anyone get any sleep around here? The marching band played until just after 9pm; the basketball players practiced until 10pm. Finally, it was quiet and I fell soundly asleep. That is until an earthquake hit and I was shaken awake by the vibrations of everything in movement, a big rumble and then a steady hum. Then this morning, promptly at 6:15am, the fireworks started going off followed by barking dogs. I guess it’s time to get up.
Breakfast was chilaquiles and coffee with bread: the quintessential Mexican breakfast. It definitely hit the spot and gave us energy for the day’s adventures.
We met our local guide, Salvador. He was chatty and friendly, and despite his tendency to talk non-stop without taking a breath, I understood most of what he was saying. Salvador is serving his year of service to the Pueblos Mancomunados community. In addition to guiding, he works as a secretary for Expediciones Sierra Norte.
Salvador told us that today the beginning of the hike would be flat, then we would go down a big hill, and then we would go up, up, up, but it would not be as challenging as yesterday. The first part was not flat, but rather a steady uphill. Next, we did have an especially steep 1,500 foot descent to the river. Salvador called it a “shortcut”.
The mosquitoes were thick down by the river but luckily they were non-biting. Calla lily lined the river bed, and the flowers were in bloom. Next to the river we discovered a trout farm with a small restaurant, but it was closed. We watched the fish for a few moments before starting back up the hill on the other side of the river.
Not far from the trout farm, we met Herminio. Herminio is an 89-year old man who owns the trout farm, which he has operated for 14-years. He told us his wife typically runs the restaurant, but we were welcome to join him for beers, mezcal or coca-cola. Or maybe all three!
What a treasure it was to spend time talking to a local elder! He told stories about when he went to the U.S. 50+ years ago as a contract laborer in California and Texas. He worked legally before coming back to Oaxaca. He also still spoke the Zapotec language, which is dying out he said, because the kids aren’t interested in learning it anymore.
Eli agreed saying many of the elders who have died recently were some of the last speakers of certain Zapotec dialects. The younger people would rather learn English. Unfortunately that means that many of these indigenous languages and practices will eventually be lost.
Herminio talked about his trout and his restaurant, while the rest of us listened intently and the guys guzzled Victoria beer. (Herminio never did find me a coca-cola!). At one point, everyone began shouting out the different ways to say “cheers!” in other languages. Herminio said in Zapotec, it’s “lisensico!”5
At last it was time to make our final 1,000 foot ascent to the town of La Neveria. While the climb was likely not as bad as yesterday, it was later in the day so it was much hotter. When Salvador said we had about five minutes left to reach the top, I started counting my steps just to keep myself motivated. 1-2-3…50!
La Neveria is small. There are maybe 80 people. Other than a few dog barks, it was also extremely quiet. Hopefully no marching bands, fireworks or earthquakes!
Lunch was calabacitas (yum!). After a nap (this is becoming a habit), we walked to the small town center and peeked in the windows of the church, but we couldn’t find the basketball court even though the town map indicated that one existed. We passed by folks walking home from work, including Hermanio. He walks about 2-miles each way every single day to feed the fish.
La Neveria tourist office 
La Neveria 
Local resident
For dinner, we were served memelas and quesadillas with hot chocolate. A group of cyclists from Spain arrived, which was really the first tourist group we have encountered staying at the same place as us. March is considered the off-season and we have seen very few foreign tourists. I usually like it that way, but we have felt a bit isolated. At least we have Eli to talk to at meals.
Day 4: 12 km (7.2 miles), La Neveria to Latuvi
What a beautiful spot! I thought all the villages in the Pueblos Mancomunados would be tranquil and secluded like this one. I adore the bench on the front porch of the cabin. It is the perfect place to sit and enjoy the early morning sun while reading a book. So far, La Neveria is my favorite village.
For breakfast, we had skunk cabbage mixed with eggs and mole. The skunk cabbage grows in abundance near wetland areas, and is best picked when it’s young. Skunk cabbage must be boiled and dried to make it edible, because the plant is toxic if eaten raw. We have the same plant in Oregon but it flowers a bit later. It was really tasty.
Our trek this day was longer but with easier climbs and descents. I was grateful. We still made it to Latuvi before 1pm. Our local guide, Guillermo, is just 24 and serving his second year of service. He planned to return to La Neveria by retracing his steps, but said first he would spend the afternoon watching the community basketball tournament, which was being broadcast from the Latuvi tourist office.
During our hike, we enjoyed maracuya or passion fruit straight from the vine. Passion fruit is one of my favorite fruits to eat fresh, so I pocketed a few before continuing down the trail. What a treat!
The late morning was pleasant. We were greeted by sheep, chickens and other farm animals as we walked taking in the charm of this tranquil place. Our path took us right past the home of elder Don Constantino who sat out front watching the world go by. I don’t imagine he gets much company this time of year. Hopefully we were a nice distraction rather than an intrusion into his private space. He was quiet but welcoming.
As we walked, both Guillermo and Eli told us about some of the local birds including the Mexican trogon (trogon mexicanus), a rare bird related to the quetzal. Eli said it is the goal of every birder who comes to Oaxaca to photograph this bird. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to actually see the Mexican trogon but we did get to hear two of them! Eli is writing a book with his friend Leonel about the biological diversity in the Sierra Norte. He gave me permission to share a few of his photos in this blog.
Once again, Eli talked to us about the uniqueness of the Pueblos Mancomunados project. Just like the U.S. the Mexican government has tried to take the indigenous lands from the people in order to extract the resources. Potential profiteers have claimed that the indigenous people are not good stewards of the land, but in fact the government has a history of selling off land to mining companies and employing the local people as slave labor. Too, the mining companies have operated with little regard for their environmental and societal impact.6
Luckily, in the Sierra Norte mountains of Oaxaca they have found a way to protect their lands from outside forces and bring money in via ecotourism which funds local conservation efforts. It is both liberating and empowering to the local communities.
Latuvi is a bigger town with schools, a basketball court and a Catholic church. The views are amazing and I spent the afternoon in a hammock relaxing and reading a book. The temperature was a little bit colder than it has been but it was just perfect sitting in the sun.
We met a couple from Montana who were traveling much more independently. They chose to reserve only the lodging in each town, which is doable through the Expediciones Sierra Norte website. They were not eating as often at the community restaurants as we were and they took public transportation from Oaxaca City.
I attempted to calculate how much they saved by not booking a package deal like we did, but unless you cut out the more expensive inclusions of the tour (like the English interpreter), the price really wasn’t that much different. The community still expects visitors to check in at the local office and hire a local guide. And if you do not book a package deal, they do nickel and dime you on extra costs such as firewood, hot water, access to the community, and travel insurance.
That afternoon we experienced a temazcal, a traditional steam bath typically used to get rid of illnesses and ailments. We opted for the relaxation version. When we arrived, Señora Albina asked us to remove our clothes and wrap ourselves in a sheet. Next, she utilized plants and herbs to beat us on every part of our bodies, even our heads. She said she was getting rid of evil spirits and asked us to hold out our hands out in an offering of assistance.
Next, we stepped inside the temazcal, which looks like a large clay oven. Inside was a mat to sit on and a stove covered in packed dirt. A bucket full of water was placed next to the stove. I remember thinking that the temperature inside was already quite warm.
Señora Albina handed us a tray of tea, then proceeded to pour water over the dirt stove producing steam. Then she dug into the dirt and placed bundles of plants on top. More water, more steam, more heat, repeat. She continued this process for around 15 minutes. At times she would grab a large bundle of plants and swish the air around the stove and in front of us. It was really hot but you could feel the cleanse. Eventually she left us, instructing us to pour water on the dirt stove if we wanted more heat. The entire experience took about 40 minutes.
We were told to use the sheet to clean ourselves off. I was covered in dead skin. Now it was time for the massage. Not all temazcals include a massage but I was happy this one did. It felt really good after hiking for the last four days. Afterwards, we actually hired a car to get back up the hill. We enjoyed yet another tasty dinner and then fell asleep wrapped in blankets next to a roaring fire.
We have one last day of hiking. Everyone has a different idea of how far it is. The official itinerary says 16 km. Yet folks in Benito Juarez and La Neveria have said 22 km. Elí also thought it was 22 km. Yet Google Maps and Señora Albina say it’s 14 km, so I am going to go with that.
Day 5: 15 km? (9.3 miles), Latuvi to Lachatao
We received so much conflicting information about how long the hike was from Latuvi to Lachatao, but it ended up being around 15 km. We were so glad it was not 22, although this was by far my favorite day of hiking. We followed an ancient path known as the Camino Real, a historic route that connected all of the communities in the Sierra Norte. It was also once part of a larger trade route that connected the Gulf of Mexico to the Pacific Ocean. The oldest community on the route is Lachatao, which was our final destination.
We had two local guides, Epifanio for the first half of the hike and Ali for the second. Epifanio is a 17-year old kid, but he was extremely knowledgeable about the plants. He also pointed out several Mexican trogons, and we were fortunate enough to finally observe one in flight (alas, no photos).
About a mile in he stopped to get his horse “Chula”, who he planned to ride on the way back. Chula sported some bloody spots on her neck, which Epifanio said came from a vampire bat. He informed us that if he didn’t move the horse to a new location, the vampire bat will return and could eventually kill her. Scary!
Eli continued to educate us about the advantages of communities like Pueblos Mancomunados. The indigenous people of Oaxaca are making much greater strides in conservation than in the rest of Mexico. In fact, Oaxaca has a larger percentage of tree cover and native forest than any other state in Mexico. Many attribute this to community stewardship. According to the Guardian, “more than half of the forests are in community and indigenous hands.” Oaxaca is often considered the poorest state in Mexico (or second only to Chiapas), but in many ways, (culturally, gastronomically, ecologically, etc) it is the richest. 7
We reached our halfway point, stopped and had lunch. I devoured my passion fruit from yesterday and it was delicious. We were now waiting for the other guide who would take us the rest of the way to Lachatao. We waited and waited and waited. Epifanio told us that the other group had left late, and also that we walk fast, so it was nearly an hour before they showed up.
The other group was a family of four on Spring Break from Boulder, Colorado. The teenage daughter was acting terribly annoyed by the whole thing. When I asked her where they had started their adventure, she replied peevishly, “how would I know that?” I shrugged my shoulders, and turned my attention elsewhere. Hopefully someday she will appreciate this experience.
Our new guide’s name was Ali. He was the coordinator at the Lachatao tourist office. Just a short distance past the midpoint, he gestured at what looked like a coarse hairy plant. Aron prodded it with a stick and said “look it’s moving.” Suddenly, daddy longlegs started oozing out in droves. It was super creepy, but also fascinating.
Ali pointed out several medicinal plants, including stinging nettle which we have at home. He said the plant is used for curing long-term pain and anger. You just rub the leaf on the afflicted area or you can create a tincture. Aron said it sounds like trading one painful experience for another. I did read later that stinging nettle is known for its anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties. I also observed a dock plant right next to the stinging nettle, which is a common folk remedy used to soothe nettle stings.
Daddy-longlegs nest. 
Bromeliads 
Succulent and lichen 
Stinging nettle 
Orchid
We saw orchids, different kinds of agave plants, and the very wispy old man’s beard, which is actually a bromeliad in this region. The trail began to climb and now that it was early afternoon, it began to get hot. Ali was our fast and fearless leader and he trudged on ahead, while the rest of us were struggling to keep up. At one point, poor Eli started choking on a bug, and when I looked back to check on him he looked like he might melt.
At last we reached the road and made a joke about hitching a ride. Then suddenly a taxi came around the corner and Eli stuck his thumb out. The taxi came to a sudden stop and we were asked if we wanted a ride into Lachatao. After walking the Camino de Santiago, a ride felt like cheating so we declined.
Then we were asked if we wanted to put our backpacks in the car. We both shook our heads vehemently. Also cheating. But Eli happily put his extra bag in the taxi and said “thank you, Carlos.” It was our driver, Carlos, who would be taking us back to Oaxaca!
Once we made it to the office (without cheating), Ali passed beers around an then brought me a shot of mezcal. “Solo para las mujeres,” he told me in Spanish. Aron asked, “where is mine?” I laughed because I realized he had not understood that Ali said the mezcal was just for women.
As the men were sitting around chatting, I wandered off to the 16th century cathedral next door. It seemed fitting that our long walk ended in front of yet another old cathedral. Just like the Camino in Spain. The church itself was closed but on the side I discovered a steep stone staircase leading up to the bell tower.
I was thankful for the metal railing as I climbed because many of the steps were crumbling. At the top were three bells and another set of stairs that went along the top of the church with no railing. I decided not to continue up those stairs. Falling off the top of a church is not the way I plan to go.
After climbing back down, we went to lunch. The view from the restaurant windows was amazing. It felt bittersweet because this was our last meal with Eli. I will miss his stories and his passion for helping the indigenous people. He says in Mexico many people are not proud of their indigenous heritage and only want to embrace their Spanish roots. It is sad and unfortunate because it also means a loss of knowledge, traditions and cultural identity. According to the Harvard International Review, every two weeks an indigenous language disappears completely.8
The ride back to the city seemed longer than the ride there. Maybe it was because I was sad to be leaving the Pueblos Mancomunados and go back to the chaos of Oaxaca City. Eli sat in front with Carlos our driver. Aron and I were in the back. I looked out the window, saying goodbye to the Pueblos and already missing the peacefulness of the mountains.
Eventually I tried to sleep to combat nausea from the constant curves in the road. The road seemed more windy than it had been on the way up, but obviously that’s impossible. Soon we reached the outskirts of the city, the hustle and bustle and the congested traffic. I didn’t want to welcome it. I wanted to transport myself back to the forest. Back to the villages. Back to the simpler life.
Carlos dropped us at our hotel. This one was in a quiet neighborhood near the center, which I appreciated. The hotel we had stayed in last week was much too urban and noisy. The organic market, La Cosecha, was just a few blocks away. And luckily, the pillows in the hotel were plush and comfortable so we were able to get a good night’s sleep.
- Heredía Lopez, Isadora y Eli García Padilla “El ecoturismo domunitario en Oaxaca.” . Ojarasca LaJornada. https://ojarasca.jornada.com.mx/2025/01/10/el-ecoturismo-comunitario-en-oaxaca-7835.html ↩︎
- In Mexico City, we learned that if you want to receive a quesadilla “with cheese”, you have to order a quesadilla “con queso”. This is not the case in Oaxaca, fortunately. ↩︎
- Desierto de los Leones National Park is located just 1-hour southwest of downtown Mexico City. The park consists of 1,529 hectares and includes the remains of an old Carmelite monastery. https://www.gob.mx/semarnat/articulos/desierto-de-los-leones. ↩︎
- Heredía Lopez, Isadora y Eli García Padilla “El ecoturismo domunitario en Oaxaca.” . Ojarasca LaJornada. https://ojarasca.jornada.com.mx/2025/01/10/el-ecoturismo-comunitario-en-oaxaca-7835.html ↩︎
- If you do a search on the Internet, you will find different words for “Cheers!” in Zapotec. I am only repeating what Hermanio told us, so it may be a different dialect. Also, the spelling is based on the auditory pronunciation. ↩︎
- Mendes, Karla. ‘No to the mine’ – Mexico’s Indians fight to stop mining on ancestral land.” March 5, 2019. Reuters. https://www.reuters.com/article/world/no-to-the-mine-mexicos-indians-fight-to-stop-mining-on-ancestral-land-idUSKCN1QM1I8/, Mexico approves mining reforms to protect environment, Indigenous people. May 2, 2023. Radwin, Maxwell. Mongabay News. https://news.mongabay.com/2023/05/mexico-approves-mining-reforms-to-protect-environment-indigenous-people/ ↩︎
- Reed, Betsy. “Fewer wildfires, great biodiversity: what is the secret to the success of Mexico’s forests?” May1, 2024.The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2024/may/01/fewer-wildfires-great-biodiversity-what-is-the-secret-to-the-success-of-mexicos-forests ↩︎
- Toth, Katalina. “The Death and Revival of Indigenous Languages.” Jan 19, 2022. Harvard International Review. https://hir.harvard.edu/the-death-and-revival-of-indigenous-languages/ ↩︎
Dear Carrie!
Thank you for sharing your travel experience visiting our communities, I`m also a member of the team of Pueblos Mancomunados, Eli shared the link of your post and while I was reading it, I could imagen every day of your trip. Thanks for let us organize youjr trip and support for support our ecoturism program with your visit.
Thanks Angelina. It was truly a memorable experience. We hope to return again in the future. Next time I want to participate in more of the workshops, especially the mole-making!
Carrie, what an absolutely amazing adventure. I loved reading all about it. I’m excited for the next edition.